Duanwu

The Dragon Boat Festival, which is called Duanwu, is an interesting event. The girls had been talking about what they'd learned at school and I've been reading up. The gist of it, paraphrased from different sources and my girls, is to commemorate Qu Yuan, loyal minister and brilliant scholar under King of Chu, whose idealogies fell out of sync with the king. In the 278 BCE, he clasped a large stone to his chest and jumped into the river. The townspeople were so distraught, they searched the river in vain. So began the Dragon Boat races. The people also sacraficially throw bamboo-wrapped rice into the river to either feed the drowned Qu Yuan or feed the fish so they won't eat Qu Yuan.

We neither threw rice nor rode in a boat that day. Instead we went to Mudu, which is out towards Lake Tai. The girls were out of school for the day and Larry was home. The weather has turned hot, which is fine with me, and the mosquitos are out in full force. We loaded ourselves down with water and bug spray and battled the crowds walking the streets. I just loved the narrow streets that follow the canals. The girls just loved looking at the silk dresses, jewelry and purses. Larry loved the scewered crabs, fried live in a spicy batter. For snacks we ate peeled, crisp cukes, which seem to taste so much better over here than in the States. Of course, the girls had their picture taken a dozen times. And, Katie even dared to use the public 'water closet'. All in all, a nice way to commemorate an ancient drowning.

Luzhi, Stepping Back in Time

Last Tuesday, Cindy invited me to go to Luzhi for the day. Luzhi is one of the oldest "water towns" in the province. It seems like everywhere I turn I'm looking at buildings or artwork, streets and shops dating back hundreds of years. Originally, there were seventy two bridges crossing over the many canals. Today, there are forty-one. Cindy thought there wasn't any charge for entering the area, but tourism is big business. We arrived just as many of the shop owners were opening their doors and others were beginning their daily routines. There were no other "westerners" for several hours, which made the experience a little less touristy. We strolled along the narrow streets, peeking into the homes and catching a glimpse of time standing still. The rooms of the homes were sparse with furniture, a table with benches no wider than my arm, stairs steeper than alpine slopes. People washing their clothes in the canal, repairing the ever-eroding buildings, bartering with each other for supplies, and always cooking something. No matter what time of day, the smells (whether good or bad) permeate the air. I'm getting a bit more daring each time I go, trying the local fare. As long as there isn't anything blatantly gross in sight, I'll give it a whirl. After Larry's success at the hospital, at least I know I can get treatment.
Cindy's youngest daughter, Jessica, hadn't gone to school because she was recovering from a bug. She's so adorable with her red-rimmed glasses. She speaks fluent Chinese and served as my intrepreter for the day. We read about the famous writers and philosophers that lived in the town, names I of course, cannot remember now. We watched the local women perform an ancient ceremonial dance and I took every dancer's picture. They thought it was great and were so excited they giggled like little girls. They are used to having their picture taken, but not at seeing the actual picture of themselves. They were lined up so each one could see. Amazing to witness and yet something else we all take for granted. In the background of the dancing picture there is a large tree. Evidently, it's a fifteen hundred year old Ginko tree and people come from far away to see it. Obviously, it didn't leave that great of an impression on me if it's only in the background. It's the people that interest me. Even the little old begger woman, who followed me throughout the town, got her picture taken. She wasn't all that impressed with her picture and asked for my camera instead.

So Proud...Regardless

We all know my girls are not shy. We also know their flair for the dramatic. This week Sydney came home from school beaming from ear to ear because these two traits served her well. She'd been asked by another Year Two teacher to perform in their class' play. Evidently, the little boy, who had the part, was very ill, and they needed someone who could learn the line quickly and speak loudly.

I went to the school yesterday to drop off some dance clothes and Ms. Stacey asked me if I'd heard about Sydney. She said the other teacher came to her and asked if she had any student who liked to perform. Ms. Stacey said she didn't even let her finish her sentence before she recommended Sydney. She even told her that Sydney could probably do the entire perfomance as a one-woman show.

So, today, I sat in the auditorium, heart bursting with pride since my daughter was chosen to join in another class' play about the solar system. What would she be? The sun, Jupiter, a meteor? I'd sent all black clothes for her costume, maybe a black hole or alien? One by one the kids came on stage saying their lines, each one a different planet. I sat up, right on the edge of my seat, camera ready. And, then..out she came! Face painted blue, standing proud and center stage, she states "Hey, I'm Uranus! I'm too cold for you and too gassy, too! Ssssssss!"

Yep, Uranus. And, yes, one mother asked me what my daughter played. I looked her straight in the eye and said "Uranus, baby!"

Differences

Every morning, I wake wondering what new adventures we'll have or sights we'll see. A drive to the store or walk to the market or park unveils something new . Most of my posts are light hearted, but I've witnessed things worthy of the Discovery Channel or possibly Nancy Grace. There are so many differences between China and the US that to try and compare or list would take years. My eyes have been opened even wider since Linda has been living with us. Two of the Sulzer wives are Chinese, but they've lived in the US for many years. Linda comes from a small, rural town in Hunan province, which is a fifteen hour bus ride and has never been anywhere except Suzhou and Shanghai (to catch the bus home). Rural, to us, means cows, big farms and wavy fields of grain. Listening to Linda describe her hometown makes me feel kind of uneasy and eternally thankful at the same time for everything I have. She speaks so lovingly of her family and neighbors. The stories of her childhood are heartwrenching, but it's not that it was so horrible (it was), it's because she says it so matter-of-fact, that's-the-way-it-was. So many of the matter-of-fact things are what make me cringe. I cannot write about many of things because, yes, I am being monitored. I've had friends who have had the "police" call them after a lengthy phone call to the US wanting to know the nature of the call. Television shows that have "inappropriate" material will suddenly go blank. My internet periodically will stop working if I'm on for a long time. These things, however, are trivial, in comparison.
To live in a country bound by such constraints seems inconceivable to us. However, to them, this is the way life has been for thousands of years. History is a powerful motivator. Linda often says "It's what my grandparents did" or "I was taught that was the way things should be".
I find myself holding my tongue quite a bit as my sarcastic nature could land me in trouble. I also worry about what will happen to Linda after we leave. Spending a couple of years with the wicked ways of the Americans could have a detrimental effect on her. She tells me everyday how different our lives are. She shakes her head bewildered at the closetful of clothes the girls have. I tell her we are on an "adventure", a new english word to her that she now uses whenever we go anywhere. I asked her if she's ever watched a movie or ate Papa Johns pizza or stayed in a hotel. Her answer everytime has been "First time, I have so many 'first times' with you".